Kurume Kasuri
Kasuri is Japanese textile tradition consisting of cotton fabric with blurred patterns. It is a type of ikat, where sections of the yarns are tied and dyed, and then woven into fabric. The traditional kasuri patterns are white on an indigo blue background. The designs vary, from simple geometric patterns for clothing, to auspicious symbolic figures such as cranes, tigers, turtles, and treasure-boats for futon (bed coverlet).
Different designs of Kurume Kasuri
Credit: Aki Watanuki, founder of the design project ‘Bon Voyage’ and member of ‘Hirokawa New Edition’
Ikat is an ancient textile technique whose origins are uncertain. It seems to have developed primarily through trade routes in several cultures, including Indonesia, India, West Africa and Peru.
In Japan ikat production began in the 12th-13th centuries in the Ryukyu kingdom which corresponds to modern day Okinawa. In the 19th century ikat was produced across Japan, in the islands of Kyushu, Shikoku and Honshu.
Map of Japan
Source: worldatlas.com
There are different types of Kasuri and they are generally named after the geographical area they are made in. Examples include Iyo Kasuri from the Ehime prefecture, Kurume Kasuri from the Fukuoka prefecture, and Bingo Kasuri from the Hiroshima prefecture.
Except for the kasuri from Okinawa, Kanto, and Kyoto which are made of silk, Kasuri are simple cotton textiles for common people. They were originally made by farmers for their own use during the Edo period and only later they became a business activity.
Countryside girls wearing Kurume Kasuri
Source: Pinterest
Precious Kimono made of hand-woven Kurume Kasuri
Credit: Aki Watanuki, founder of the design project ‘Bon Voyage’ and member of ‘Hirokawa New Edition’
Kurume Kasuri
Kurume Kasuri is a type of ikat that is named after the feudal clan of Kurume from the Edo period. It is still produced in Kurume, Hirokawa, Yame and Chikugo, in the Chikugo region (Fukuoka prefecture ), where there are approximately 21 weaving workshops in operation. Kurume kasuri is made both by hand, using natural indigo dye and hand-looms, and semi-industrially, using vintage Toyota looms from the first half of the 20th century.
In 1957 the hand-made Kurume Kasuri was recognized as intangible cultural heritage by Japan, to preserve the Japanese craft and support the artisans.
How Kurume Kasuri is made
The process to make Kurume Kasuri consists of approximately 30 steps. The most important ones are the following:
1. Designing the pattern and drawing it on the yarns
Credit: Aki Watanuki, founder of the design project ‘Bon Voyage’ and member of ‘Hirokawa New Edition’
2. Tying sections of the weft or warp yarns
Credit: Aki Watanuki, founder of the design project ‘Bon Voyage’ and member of ‘Hirokawa New Edition’
‘Kukuri’ refers to the process of tying sections of the weft or warp yarns. Traditionally, this is done by hand using hemp threads; however, many workshops rely on vintage machines operated by hand. The tied sections are left undyed. This is the most complicated step of the process because it determines the final fabric design
3. The yarns are dipped in a vat of indigo buried in the soil and wrung out 50-60 times
Credit: Aki Watanuki, founder of the design project ‘Bon Voyage’ and member of ‘Hirokawa New Edition’
5. Kurume Kasuri is woven either on a wooden handloom or on vintage Toyota power looms
Credit: Aki Watanuki, founder of the design project ‘Bon Voyage’ and member of ‘Hirokawa New Edition’
4. The yarns are soaked overnight in warm water, untied and left to dry in the sun
Credit: Aki Watanuki, founder of the design project ‘Bon Voyage’ and member of ‘Hirokawa New Edition’
6. The final fabric is steamed and hung on poles to dry. It measures 38cm in width.
Credit: Aki Watanuki, founder of the design project ‘Bon Voyage’ and member of ‘Hirokawa New Edition’
Selected sources:
This article is the result of several conversations between myself and Aki Watanuki. Aki is a textile designer working with the city of Hirokawa, Japan, to preserve and revive the tradition of Kurume Kasuri. You can check out her personal website here
‘Ikat. An introduction’, D. Ritch and Y. Wada, 1975
Kurume Kasuri Trade Association - link here