What is ikat?

Ikat is a malay word that means to tie or to bind, and it is a generic term common in the west to describe the textile made by tie-dying and weaving silk and cotton threads. Click here to see how it is made.

Panels of Uzbek Ikat fabrics on display, which are assembled to create a garment such as a Chappan, the traditional Uzbek robe - see below.

Credits: Francesca Stocco, founder at Filanda n.18

Originally of Indonesian origin, the technique dates back to thousands of years. In Uzbekistan the technique is called abrbandi, and it means to bind clouds. It seems that ikat weaving began in Central Asian around the 4th century and had some animist patterns.

In the 8th century ikat designs started to be influenced by Islam and the patterns are similar to the ones we see today.

The paisley pattern on the ikat symbolises well being and prosperity

Credits: LACMA Museum

The circular shapes on the ikat are pomegranates, symbolising fertility and abundance

Credit: LACMA Museum

Boukhara and Kokkand used to be the most famous centers of ikat production, until the Soviets invaded Uzbekistan. During the Soviet time, ikat stopped being produced, as the regime wanted the workforce to focus on mass cotton production.

Bukhara and Kokkand, in the Ferghana valley, used to be famous renters of ikat production until the 1860s.

A few artisans kept on making ikat in their houses, and in the late 90s, after the fall of the Soviet Union, hand loomed ikat weaving was revived.

Weaving Ikat

Credits: Margilan Crafts Development Center