Phulkari’s motifs and patterns

Phulkaris are beautiful embroidered cloths originating from Punjab, a region encompassing areas that now belong to both Pakistan and India.

These intricate textiles follow two main style directions. One showcases abstracted and geometric motifs, while the other depicts figurative rural scenes dating back to the 19th and 20th centuries.

Phulkari with flowering trees’ geometric pattern. Handspun cotton plain weave (khaddar) with silk and cotton embroidery. Early 20th century. Source: Philadelphia Museum of Art

Sainchi Phulkari representing figurative circus imagery and village scenes. Early 20th century. Source: Philadelphia Museum of Art

Phulkari are named according to their specific embroidery motifs, and each carries its own distinct cultural significance. Baghs are completely embroidered cloths with geometric motifs, and are also the most expensive type. Sainchis have figurative embroideries representing animals, wrestlers, circus scenes, and rural life. Chopes are shawls donated to a girl by her grandmother on her wedding day. Thirmas are embroidered on white khaddars, generally worn by elderly women. Darshan dwars depict temple architectures and were meant to be presented at gurdwaras (Sikh temple).

The Philadelphia Museum of Art’s online phulkari collection boasts a remarkable collection of 19th and 20th- century phulkaris that exemplify the artistry and heritage of Punjab's embroidery tradition.

Here are some images from the collection.

Sainchi Phulkari representing circus scenes, trains, village life scenes, elephants and camels. Handspun and handwoven cotton plain weave (khaddar) with silk and cotton embroidery. Early 20th century. Source: Philadelphia Museum of Art

Sainchi Phulkari depicting flowers, trees, animals, wedding jewelry and folk tales. Handspun and handwoven cotton plain weave (khaddar) with silk, wool and cotton embroidery. Early 20th century. Source: Philadelphia Museum of Art

The phulkaris above are called sainchis. They are figurative embroideries representing rural village scenes, trains, flowers, animals, circus scenes, etc. These phulkaris reflect what an embroiderer was observing in her surroundings or her dreams and imagination.

Thirma Phulkari with regular pointed motif. Handspun and handwoven cotton plain weave (khaddar) with silk embroidery. 19th century. Source: Philadelphia Museum of Art

Thirma (white) phulkaris, like the one above, were generally worn by older women. The phulkari pointed motif might have been inspired by ikat textiles

Darshan Dwar Phulkari representing wedding jewelry, large animals, peacocks, wheat and flower motifs. Handspun and handwoven cotton plain weave (khaddar) with silk and cotton embroidery. First half of 20th century. Source: Philadelphia Museum of Art

Darshan Dwar (“doors to the divine”) phulkaris depict rows of temple doors as well as human and animal figures

Bagh Phulkari with zigzag pattern. Handspun cotton plain weave (khaddar) with silk embroidery. First half of the 20th century. Source: Philadelphia Museum of Art

Completely embroidered, bagh phulkaris are the most time consuming to make and the most expensive to buy.