Phulkari: a women's art

Phulkari is mainly a women’s art. In the early 19th century, phulkari embroideries were considered women´s wealth and passed on as heirlooms among generations. Traditionally, a grandmother would start a phulkari work when a granddaughter was born; she would then pass it on to her as part of her bridal trousseau. Phulkaris were worn as large shawls during religious celebrations, such as weddings, or used as decorations for homes or temples.

Chope Phulkari, traditionally worn on the wedding day. Handspun cotton plain weave (khaddar) with silk embroidery. First half of the 20th century. Source: Philadelphia Museum of Art

Most importantly, phulkari embroideries were a way for women to express their voice and world view. The sainchi phulkaris (see images below) are figurative embroideries depicting characters from Punjabi folk-tales, groups of people wearing European and local attires, musicians, dancers, circus scenes, trains, women spinning thread on a charkha (hand spinning wheel) or making butter. Motifs were inspired from the embroiderer´s daily life and newspapers, or they were just fruits of her own imagination.

Detail of Sainchi Phulkari depicting a woman spinning thread on a charka (hand spinning wheel). Handspun and handwoven cotton plain weave (khaddar) with silk and cotton embroidery. Early 20th century. Source: Philadelphia Museum of Art

Detail of Sainchi Phulkari depicting a woman churning cream into butter. Handspun and handwoven cotton plain weave (khaddar) with silk and cotton embroidery. Early 20th century. Source: Philadelphia Museum of Art

Detail of Sainchi Phulkari depicting a circus scene. Handspun and handwoven cotton plain weave (khaddar) with silk and cotton embroidery. Early 20th century. Source: Philadelphia Museum of Art

Detail of Sainchi Phulkari depicting folk tales. Cotton plain weave (khaddar) with silk, cotton and wool embroidery. Early 20th century. Source: Philadelphia Museum of Art

Detail of Darshan Dwar Phulkari depicting wedding jewelry. Handspun and handwoven cotton plain weave (khaddar) with silk and cotton embroidery. First half of the 20th century. Source: Philadelphia Museum of Art

Detail of Sainchi Phulkari depicting folk tales and wedding jewelry. Cotton plain weave (khaddar) with silk, cotton and wool embroidery. Early 20th century. Source: Philadelphia Museum of Art

Today phulkari embroidery is considered a means for women empowerment. NGOs, such as the Nabha Foundation, offer phulkari design and stitching training to women as well as market opportunities for their work. When we were in Nabha, we met a group of local women supported by the foundation. These women go almost daily at the local gurudwara (Sikh house of worship) where they meet to chat and do some phulkari work. Phulkari represents primarily a source of income, but it also encourages women to do creative work in a safe and respected environment.