What is phulkari?
Phulkari translates as ‘floral work’ (phul: flower; karna: to work). It is a darning-stitch embroidery originating from pre-Partition Punjab, a region that today includes parts of the Punjab province in Pakistan as well as the states of Punjab, Haryana, and Himachal Pradesh in India (see map below).
Phulkaris are large embroidered cloths, typically crafted on hand-spun and handwowen cotton muslin known as khadi. The embroidery threads predominantly comprise silk, followed by cotton and wool. Phulkari cloths assume different names according to the embroidery’s design. Click here to discover our favourites.
Below is a phulkari shawl in the process of being stitched with geometric flower pattern by artisans in Nabha, India.
An artisan from the Nabha Foundation stitching a phulkari shawl. In Nabha, India
Key sites for phulkari production in the 19th and 20th centuries. Source: Phulkari. The Embroidered Textiles of Punjab from Jill and Sheldon Bonovitz Collection, Mason, 2017
Phulkari today
The ongoing global conversation on sustainable fashion has led to a renewed interest in Phulkari among consumers. A few thousand phulkari embroiderers continue to keep the tradition alive in Punjab. Non-governmental organizations like the Nabha Foundation are empowering women through Phulkari training initiatives.
In 2013, the celebrated Indian designer Manish Malhotra dedicated his Autumn/Winter collection titled ‘Threads of Emotion’ to Phulkari embroideries.
In 2017, the Philadelphia Museum of Art hosted an exhibition titled ‘Phulkari: The Embroidered Textiles of Punjab from the Jill and Sheldon Bonovitz Collection’, displaying breathtaking 19th-20th century phulkaris. The exhibition also featured Manish Malhotra´s creations, bridging the gap between tradition and modernity.
Initiatives like the Phulkari Mela in Delhi and the Surajkund Mela in Haryana provide artisans with platforms to showcase and sell their crafts, spreading awareness about this century-old art form.
Phulkari's resurgent popularity not only celebrates the artistic finesse of its creators but also contributes to the preservation of Punjab's rich cultural heritage.
19th- 20th century Phulkaris on display at the Philadelphia Museum of Art in occasion of the exhibition Phulkari. The Embroidered Textiles of Punjab from Jill and Sheldon Bonovitz Collection in 2017. Source: Architectural Digest India, 2017
Manish Malhotra phulkari creations on display at the Philadelphia Museum of Art in occasion of the exhibition Phulkari. The Embroidered Textiles of Punjab from Jill and Sheldon Bonovitz Collection in 2017. Source: Architectural Digest India, 2017